Warm Textures on a Cold Day: Spicy Steak Pipérade with Creamed Leeks

As the season changes, so too does our kitchen and the veritable treasure trove of local ingredients that call it home. The risk of frost beckons at our back door, signaling the arrival of various gourds, leafy bundles of kale and brussels sprouts, and the deep violet tones of earthy beets. Yet, here in the Treasure Valley, one bit of produce rises to the top of my priority list as soon as I catch wind that they are ready for harvest: Espelette Pepper

Festoons of Espelette!

Espelette Pepper is one of the most integral ingredients in Basque Cooking. Grown in the Basque Country, this incredibly popular pepper has festivals dedicated to its preservation. In some places, they have gone so far as replacing ground pepper with piment d’Espelette, a ground powder made from the fingerlike peppers themselves. This ground additive has garnered such a notoriety that it’s labeled as an AOC product, meaning it must meet certain standards to even be called piment d’Espelette. If you see that AOC stamp on a jar in the store, you know what you have is the good stuff. Locally, the peppers can be grown en masse as well, and subsequently dried in large ornate festoons of peppery delight.

It is a RUSH to get to the market when these babies become available for a few weeks in September. I usually purchase a few pounds of whole peppers, and then freeze them, so that way I have Espelette all year long. Once thawed, they can be ground down into a paste, or dried and powdered to form some homegrown version of piment d’Espelette. When I’m lucky enough to have some Espelette peppers on me, though, I tend to go for a homier dish that warms the body, just as the temperatures are starting to dip: Spicy Steak Pipérade with Creamed Leeks.

Dat sear tho!

The basic components of a pipérade sauce are peppers, olive oil, tomato, and onion, with the espellete pepper used as flavoring. In this recipe, since we already have a bit of sauciness going on with the creamed leeks, I transformed the traditional pipérade into a marinade, embellishing a tender flank steak with all the flavors inside. As such, I removed tomato and bell pepper from the recipe, instead choosing to go all in with 3 medium sized Espelette peppers I got in my market haul earlier this fall. Adding tomato paste in the marinade isn’t a bad idea by any means! Just know that since tomato paste is concentrated, a little goes a long way, and the overall flavor profile will be a tad sweeter. Onion makes an appearance in the overall flavor profile of the dish, as the leeks mingle with the seared texture on the steak, creating a wonderful melody on the palate.

The thickness in the creamed leeks….oh man, it’s mouthwatering!

First things first: You need to make the marinade. Start off by giving a rough chop to 3 or so medium Espelette-style peppers. The luscious red on these peppers hide a spicy sweet flavor that will pair incredibly well with the streak. Add the pepper into a Mortar and Pestle, and grind into almost a paste. You want the flesh to break down a bit here before we add the other ingredients; this allows the marinade to stay largely uniform and won’t overwork the other additions. Add a tiny bit of salt at this point to help the paste form. Once done, add the capers, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and garlic, and grind a bit more. Then, slowly add in the olive oil while grinding, and set aside. Place your flank steak in a bag, and smother it in the marinade, coating the meat completely. This is SUPER important, since the enzymes in the marinade will help tenderize the meat. Then, set the bag in the fridge to mellow and mingle for at least 30 minutes. Let’s be honest though, the longer you let this sit, the better! I absolutely recommend letting this meat sit overnight, though as long as its been 30 minutes or so, you are good to go.

This marinade is to die for! Look all all those lovely capers!

Next, while the marinade is sitting, let’s get the prep work done on these leeks. Leeks are a curious little allium, which means that it comes from the same family as onions, garlic, and scallions. I find that leeks impart a much milder flavor to whatever you are cooking and have a quite naughty creaminess when paired with savory dairy. As a side, they provide a luxurious texture that is surprisingly filling, yet gentle on the palate.

Start off by slicing off the green top of the leek, and the root on the bottom, leaving a straight white stalk in the middle. Don’t throw out the other bits though! These are perfect for stocks, so stick them in a bag of veggie scraps and place them in the fridge for future use. Then, Slice the stalk in half lengthwise. This should expose the layers of the leek. Run these halves under cool running water to remove any leftover dirt that was missed in the packaging and preparation process. These are veggies that grow directly out of the ground, so its always a good idea to give them a good old cleaning before we proceed with the prepping. Once that is done, thinly slice the halved leeks widthwise, so small semicircular ribbons of allium grace your cutting board. Set this pile of flavor aside until after the steak is well on its way through the cooking process.

I have some glorious plans for you, my dear leeks!

Speaking of which, let’s bring out that steak after at least 30 minutes have passed. By now, that marinade should have percolated all throughout the meat, with the enzymes in the oil and acid breaking down the proteins, creating a tender canvas for us to work with. Preheat the oven to 350°, set a skillet (I prefer cast iron) to medium-high heat, and add in a drizzle of olive oil. You want to be looking for a sheen here, or a wavy ripple that goes across the pan. That is the clear indicator that the oil is ready to meet with the surface of whatever we are cooking. If the oil isn’t hot, the meat won’t sear properly, and instead, you’ll end up with a rubbery mess. SO! Once the oil is nice and hot, Salt and pepper the meat generously, and place the steak in the pan by laying it away from you, as to prevent any splashes of oil. The sizzle should be instantaneous, and vigorous.

The bubbling on the side means that it’s working! Don’t touch it!

Let that steak sit for a good 3-5 minutes. You can tell when one side is done when it effortlessly comes off the bottom of the pan. This takes patience, and you are going to want to touch it, and check it. DO NOT DO THIS THING! Let the meat sear without any added help. If you try to pull it off early, it’ll just tear on the bottom of the pan. Let the surface of the meat caramelize and crisp, so that the proteins release from the heated surface on their own. This preserves a crisp texture on the outside, which will pair well with everything we are making in this recipe. Once one side is done, flip the steak, and sear for another 3-5 minutes. Then, place the pan itself in the oven, until the internal temperature of the steak meets your desired doneness. I personally advocate for medium rare, so I pull mine out once it’s at 135°. That gives the inside a beautiful pink, while keeping it soft and just cooked. Those of you out there who like it well done want to pull it out at 165°. Use a meat thermometer to get the best reading! Regardless of temperature, once you pull the steak out of the oven, you need to let it rest for AT LEAST 10 minutes. This way, you won’t lose those delicious juices and flavors when you slice into it.

Off to a great start! Needs just a little bit more!

While the meat rests, lets cream some leeks. In another skillet, drizzle some olive oil and set to medium heat. Once the oil sheens, add in all the leeks, along with a good sprinkle of salt and pepper. This helps to draw out the moisture in the leeks, which helps to render them a bit faster. This will take between 5 and 10 minutes, but be prepared to wait a bit longer if the slices are on the thicker side. Once they are rendered down and soft (not necessarily brown), add in the cream, and continue to cook over medium-low heat until the leeks have thickened up. Season to taste with the salt and pepper. To plate, thinly slice the steak, and set to once side of the plate, and add a large dollop of creamy leeky goodness opposite.

You should be able to move a spoon through it and not have the cream move into the space too quickly. This is the best thickness!

This meal warms me up on a frosty day, and the flavors give me the kick I need to finish the day strong! I dare you to try this out! Don’t be afraid to take your own culinary spin on it, either! There are so many possibilities at your fingertips when you’ve got great produce within arms’ reach!

The leeks, the spicy steak, the textures….ooomph, I’m getting the tinglies!!!

Recipe: Spicy Steak Pipérade with Creamed Leeks

Ingredients:

• 2 lbs Flank Steak

• 3 medium leeks

• 1/3 cup cream (plus more for desired creaminess)

• 3 medium Basque red peppers, such as Espellette or Gorria Pepper

• 2 Large spoonfuls Caper buds (with brining liquid)

• 1 spoonful Worcestershire sauce

• 3 tablespoons lemon juice

• ¼ cup Olive oil

• 2 cloves minced garlic

• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

1.       Create the marinade. Dice the pepper into small pieces, and place into the mortar. Add the Capers (plus the brining liquid the capers came in), and grind until slightly incorporated. Then, add lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Grind until well incorporated.

2.       Place Flank Steak in a plastic bag and pour in the marinade. Ensure the marinade is completely coating the meat, and let rest for at least 30 minutes, but preferably overnight.

3.       Prepare the leeks. Slice of the green leaves and the root of the leek, leaving the white stalk. Slice the stalk in half, and run each half under cool water, to help clean between each of the layers. Then, slice the leeks widthwise into small strips. Set aside.

4.       Sear the steak. Preheat the oven to 350°. Then, heat a skillet on medium-high, and place a small drizzle of oil in the pan. Salt and Pepper the steak well. Once the oil sheens, or looks wavy, place the steak in the pan, searing for 3-5 minutes each side, or until nicely browned. The steak should easily release from the pan; this means the sear is complete. After the sear is complete, place the steak in the oven to finish cooking. Once the meat has reached the desired internal temperature, remove and let rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing.

5.       While the steak is cooking, heat another skillet over medium high heat and add a drizzle of olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add in the leeks, and generously season with salt. This helps to draw out the moisture and will caramelize the leeks faster. Once the leeks are soft (5 -10 minutes), add in the cream, and salt/pepper to taste.